The Albillo Grape

A number of foreign authors have described it as one of Spain's best guarded secrets, because although its origins are unknown, it is practically impossible to find it beyond our frontiers. In reality, the Albillo was the table grape of all of Castile and was considered to be the finest stock from which to make mellow wines, such as the extremely famous ones of San Martín de Valdeiglesias (known as greenish-yellow white wines) which, in a 17th century dominated by sherries and white wines from the Ribadavia and Rueda regions, seduced not only the Court in Madrid, but also the surrounding provinces and the Basques in the north. So appreciated was this wine, which was sent to age in the chilly latitudes of Ávila, that it inspired the popular saying "Vino de San Martín encerrado en Ávila vale más que un florín" (Wine from San Martín locked up in Ávila is worth more than a florin).

ORIGIN

In the Protected Denomination of Origin of Madrid, the Albillo is described as the main variety in the sub-area of San Martín de Valdeiglesias. According to information published in the Grape-growing and Wine-producing Property Register of 1976, this variety occupied 3,460 acres in the Community of Madrid, in other words some 4% of all the vineyards in this autonomous community at the time. Currently, the surface area upon which this variety of vine is still cultivated has shrunk considerably due to its low yields and the low prices paid for its grape. According to data compiled by the I.N.D.O. (Spanish Protected Denomination of Origin Institute) in 1994, the surface area under Albillo vines in the Community of Madrid was 1,986 acres, a considerable drop but still 4 % of all types of arable land used as vineyards in the region. This variety is grown in the Community of Madrid with the vine stock being kept low to the ground. The productive pruning practiced is short, with one or two shoots remaining visible above the stock. Ninety-eight percent of the Albillo vineyards are planted out in a staggered formation, and these are to be found in the San Martín de Valdeiglesias and Cadalso de los Vidrios areas.

ENOLOGY

The Albillo has a long tradition as a table grape and it was sold in Madrid during the months of August and September under the denomination of Albillo as el Oro (Gold). Its tradition as a wine-making grape goes back equally as far, given the fact that it was used in the famous wines of San Martín that were so highly appreciated at the Court of Madrid in the 16th century. The Albillo is no longer consumed as a table grape, having been replaced by other more productive and attractive varieties such as the Muscatel Romano or Italia. As a young wine whose fermentation has been controlled, it gives rise to whites with somewhat of a body, slick and very aromatic, with a high content of sugar that lends the wine a certain degree of quality and an extremely personal touch. Currently, production includes aging, or at least fermenting, in oak barrels, and this provides extremely personal wines which have been widely accepted in the marketplace. The problem with Albillo wines is their low acidity and their tendency to oxidise in the bottle, and for this reason it is recommended that they be drunk between the months of January and June, which is when this particular variety is at its best.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

YOUNG VINE SHOOT: On sprouting, a little like cotton wool, with a slight reddish colouring at the end.

BEHAVIOUR OF THE VINE: A creeping, yellowish-brown sprout.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LEAF: Small in size, pentagonal in shape, lower lateral sinuses almost inexistent, can appear trilobular, open petiolar sinus, an extremely dark green surface and a practically hairless underside.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BUNCH: Small in size, loose and extremely varied in shape: cylindrical, short cone, and sometimes double with wings.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BERRY: Medium sized, round in shape and golden yellow in colour.

VEGETATIVE PERIOD: Early to shoot and mature.

VULNERABILITY: Sensitive to spring frosts due to their tendency to sprout early. SIMILAR VARIETIES: Albilla (Guadalajara), Albillo de Cebreros (Ávila), Albillo de Madrid (Madrid), Albillo de Toro (Zamora) and Nieves Temprano (Zaragoza).

OTHER DETAILS: Under the name of Albillo there are a great many homonyms. They need to be pruned long in order to avoid the frosts and increase their yield.

Ctra. De Avila s/n San Martín de Valdeiglesias 28680 Madrid
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